Indian Sesame Cardamom Candy (Til Gul Ladoo) Recipe - Bois de Jasmin

Indian Sesame Cardamom Candy (Til Gul Ladoo) Recipe - Bois de Jasmin

Sunday, December 17, 2023

 

As the sesame seeds heat up, their delicate aroma dramatically changes into a dark, toasty fragrance that hovers above the pan. This simple transformation is delightful, but becomes even more special when, after mixed with ground cardamom and peanuts, sesame seeds hit a pan of melted sugar. At this point, it is a fragrance of such richness and opulence that I want to bottle it and wear it as perfume: dark caramel, spicy and nutty notes blend into a beautiful harmony. What I am making is til gul ladoo, a sesame cardamom candy popular in the western Indian states of Maharashtra and Gujarat.

January 14th in India marks the transition of the Sun into Capricorn and the return of the sun to the Northern hemisphere and is celebrated by the Makar Sankranti festival (Makara refers to Capricorn.) Its celebrations range in terms of importance for different parts of India, but in the western states, it is a festival of particular significance. It is seen as the beginning of a new, very auspicious period, and an atmosphere of fun and festivity marks the delight with which this season is greeted.

In Gujarat, the sky bursts into bright colors, as the kite running begins. In the days leading up to the 14th, children and adults are busy fashioning their showpieces and gluing powdered glass on the strings to cut down other kites in a grand and fiercely competitive show. The sesame candy, til gul (til means sesame and gul means jaggery, palm sugar in Hindi and Marathi) is an integral part of the celebrations. As people visit their friends and family, they share til gul, saying, “Tilgul ghya, god god bola,” which means “Eat tilgul and speak sweet words,” forget past differences and start afresh.

It is impossible not to talk sweet words when eating this fragrant sesame candy, which belongs to the praline family, confections made from nuts and sugar syrup. Its rich sesame flavor makes it reminiscent of tahini halwah, although given the sugar-nuts ratio, til gul is not as sweet. A bright accent of cardamom lends it a very distinctive and memorable accent with a lingering citrusy aftertaste. Its texture is a cross between the melting decadence of halwah and the crunch of sesame brittle. All in all, quite irresistible!

Makes 10-12 round candies

There are many different recipes for til gul, and some variations include raisins, dried coconut and whole peanuts instead of ground. Some recipes call for rose water or nutmeg instead of cardamom. I am partial to the simple cardamom flavored version below, which I learned in India, but if you feel like experimenting, add 1 Tbsp peanuts and 1 Tbsp dried coconut flakes to the recipe below (insted of 2 Tbsp peanuts). Or use 2 tsp of rosewater or 1/8 tsp nutmeg instead of cardamom.

When made with unrefined sugar ( jaggery), its floral-caramel character is even more complex; although, I have made til gul with light brown sugar and ended up very pleased with the results. The recipe is not complicated, but it is important not to overcook the sugar or else shaping will be difficult. Please note that working with sugar syrup requires caution (I wear rubber gloves,) since the mixture needs to be hot for shaping. Therefore, if you are making the candies for the first time, try my very easy alternative shaping method. I will promise you though that whatever the shape, the taste of your candies will be delicious.

1 cup sesame seeds
2 Tbsp roasted ground peanuts
1/2 cup Jaggery (see note on substitutions)
2-3 Tbsp water
1 tsp ghee (clarified butter) (see note)
1/2 tsp ground cardamom

Roast the sesame seeds in a dry skillet till they turn a couple shades darker. It takes only 4-5 minutes. Remove from the pan and cool down. Grind half the sesame seeds and then mix with the remaining whole seeds and also the ground peanuts and ground cardamom.

Now the next stage happens very fast. Put on your rubber gloves if you are planning to shape the mixture by hand, and set everything close to the stove. In a heavy pan, melt the jaggery on low heat while constantly stirring. Once it melts, add water carefully. The mixture will bubble up vigorously; it will seize up and then melt again. The sugar will need to be cooked till soft ball stage. To test, take a cup of water and drop a little syrup in it. If it does not dissolve in the water, it is ready. If you have a candy thermometer, the sugar is ready at 235° F–240° F /118° C–120° C. Then add ghee, mix it in and turn off the heat. Immediately add the spice and sesame seed mixture and mix it in well. The mixture will not be of pourable consistency, but it will be sticky. Put a little ghee on your fingers and start rolling the candies. Since the mixture is workable only when it is warm, I spoon out little scoops of the mixture on a plate, given them a rough shape and then return to roll them into balls once all of the mixture is used up. If the mixture cools down too much and hardens, then add a spoonful of water and warm up on low heat.

Alternatively, spread the hot mixture on a buttered cookie sheet and cut right away into lozenges or little diamonds.

Let them cool completely and enjoy!

Ingredient Notes:
Jaggery—unrefined cane or palm sugar. It is less sweet per weight than white sugar and has a great complexity, ranging from orange blossom flavors to caramel. Light brown sugar or any other unrefined sugar can be used as a substitute.

Ghee–also known as clarified butter, is made by simmering butter on low heat until the milk solids have settled to the bottom and the water has evaporated. The resulting liquid is then strained. The browned milk solids are delicious used in mashed potatoes or in lentil soups. The golden butter fat lasts for a very long time even without refrigeration, provided that it has been clarified properly and all of the moisture is kept out. I usually make ghee in large batches and store it in the fridge. Its caramel flavor is addictive.

Photography © Bois de Jasmin.

SEMOLINA LADOO SWEETS WITH COCONUT AND ARABIC GUM

SEMOLINA LADOO SWEETS WITH COCONUT AND ARABIC GUM

Thursday, November 19, 2020

As dreams start finding reality, I am humbled to the beginnings of my knowledge and thankful for my un-satiated desire to learn. Food and it’s celebration was a gift I grew up with. A precious joy that was handed down to me by my two grandmothers and most importantly, my mother. All my best memories of childhood revolve around a dining table, walking into my home or my grandmother’s homes and being hit with the aromas of home cooked warmth, greeted with smiles and a heart full of love. Feeding me seemed to give them the greatest delight. The happiness they felt knowing I had eaten more than I could cope with always was the reason for my never saying no – nothing can compare to the joy in a Asian’s mother’s face when she sees a plate wiped clean with your last piece of chappati. My most endearing memories of my late grandmother’s was the excitement with which they created a meal – that their entire day would be meaningful from just that. My mother still cooks me  hearty soul satisfying meals with the joy reminiscent of my grandmothers…

Though there is one aroma that transports me to a time of childhood glee and recklessness, a time of endless days and lazy afternoons – the smell of semolina fried gently in ghee and cardamom. One of the simplest desserts of Pakistan is Semolina Halva, and my Nani rejoiced in making this dish, I remember well that she would add  nuts in it – which at the time I abhorred, however with time and experience I have learnt to appreciate the earthiness and sweetness they add – I share my recipe for a Pakistani laddo (a round shaped sweet) – made with pistachios, semolina, coconut and Arabic gum – this edible gum is found in most Asian food stores and my mother always adds this, it is meant to give bones strength – based on a old Lucknowi recipe that my Dadi’s family had been making for centuries. I have now improvised this and added coconut, as the original recipe does not call for it. It is said that edible gum is strengthening and  gives strength to women after pregnancy, the ailing and children as well. But these can be enjoyed as an after dinner treat or even with tea..

I dedicate this recipe  to my late grandmothers who instilled a burning passion for cooking Pakistani food that grows within me and most of all to my wonderful mother who has not only channelled my love for cooking but taught me all that there is to know about life, food and honouring your heritage. She is the one who has helped me find my way to a place where I have something to give back to others who celebrate the adoration of food and what joy it brings to life.  Thank you Mummy x

Preparation time: 10 minutes
Cooking time: 20 minutes
Total time: 30 minutes
Makes about 10 pieces, depending on size

Ingredients:

150 – 200 g semolina
80 g  desiccated coconut,  keep a little aside for rolling
115 g  caster sugar
1 tbsp ghee
1 tsp freshly ground cardamom
3 tbsp of chopped pistachios
1 tbsp chopped almonds
1 tbsp Arabic gum – pre-fried in ghee and puffed up (optional)
1 tbsp golden raisins
½ cup whole milk
2 – 3 tbsp ghee

Method:

1. Heat a wok style pan and add ghee on medium heat. Add all the dry fruit and let them change colour slightly. . Add puffed gum at this point if using.
2. Now add the coconut and then semolina, cook on very low heat stirring constantly and not letting the mixture burn and allow to cook evenly
3. Add sugar and keep mixing the semolina. Add milk to bind and now switch off the heat.
4. Add cardamom powder and mix well. Place in a flat dish and allow to cool for a few minutes.
5. Once slightly cool, take a small amount of the semolina and make tiny ladoos, round balls the size of golf-balls. Place on a dish and allow to cool for 1-2 hours.
6. These keep in the fridge for 1 week and outside in a covered container for 2-3 days – best eaten at room temperature.

Silk rose in photos by Lotus Blu